Its been a time and I've forgotten lore than I know so I'm looking for a basicdiagram and not a long explanation, please.
Guitar has 1 HB, 1 single, 2 volume, 2 tone.build it on a table.
Someone else wired it (I just bought it) and someone replaced everything but the 1960s 3 way switch which is a bunch of pieces held together by tape.
I have no access panels and have to work through F holes or cut it all out and
All help is appreciated
Its been a time and I've forgotten lore than I know so I'm looking for abasic diagram and not a long explanation, please.
Guitar has 1 HB, 1 single, 2 volume, 2 tone.the 1960s 3 way switch which is a bunch of pieces held together by tape.
Someone else wired it (I just bought it) and someone replaced everything but
I have no access panels and have to work through F holes or cut it all outand build it on a table.
All help is appreciated
No name guitarvwith fantastic action. I've got a proper table, endoscope,and all the luthier & electronic tools, etc one could use. I just dont have a schematic for a HB-SC-3way slider with 2 each volume and 2 each tone controls.
Ive replaced the busted up selector and wired it the same way as thebold andstill have no front pick (single coil).
Spent so much time searching for a schematic and no luck so if someone hasone pls forward. Thank you!
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 14:56:46 -0800 (PST), RIDDLEYWALKER <brettmeldahl@gmail.com> wrote:
No name guitarvwith fantastic action. I've got a proper table,
endoscope, and all the luthier & electronic tools, etc one could use.
I just dont have a schematic for a HB-SC-3way slider with 2 each
volume and 2 each tone controls.
Ive replaced the busted up selector and wired it the same way as the
old and still have no front pick (single coil).
Spent so much time searching for a schematic and no luck so if someone
has one pls forward. Thank you!
-
There's a continuity problem with the single PU. It's no less a
duplicate circuit, for that purpose, split from the selector with the single-coil existing its own tone pots. An open electrical condition
will need be isolated within the single-coils own circuit path:
a) does the selector hold electrical continuity and pass a signal
without an open from the single-coil selection.
b)...is that PU itself functional and have a signal to amplify (can
you hear a screwdriver tap occur when it touches against the coils)?
c) is the PU signal finally getting through as passed through both to resistor volume and tone pots and their supportive
capacitors/resistors?
[d: amplifier output jack should be common to a working humbucker and irrelevant or in working condition to both PUs.]
One of three, then, [a-c] are the possible sub-stages where, in that particular circuit Single-Coil stage, an OPEN condition exists in
wiring or a supportive component.
Multimeter is needed. Nice extras are a meter with an audible feedback continuity checker, and a tiny $10 shoebox "practice" amp from a
pawnshop is easier deal with while working to fit under, aside or
beside whatall else is regardless going on on the worktable.
On 1/23/20 9:11 PM, Flasherly wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 14:56:46 -0800 (PST), RIDDLEYWALKER <brettmeldahl@gmail.com> wrote:
No name guitarvwith fantastic action. I've got a proper table,
endoscope, and all the luthier & electronic tools, etc one could use.
I just dont have a schematic for a HB-SC-3way slider with 2 each
volume and 2 each tone controls.
Those slider switches often add a capacitor to the circuit. Adding a capacitor will cut higher frequency and appear to boost the lower end.
It is best to simply draw out what the wiring circuit is instead of
trying to find a matching one on line.
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 14:56:46 -0800 (PST), RIDDLEYWALKER <brettmeldahl@gmail.com> wrote:
No name guitarvwith fantastic action. I've got a proper table,
endoscope, and all the luthier & electronic tools, etc one could use.
I just dont have a schematic for a HB-SC-3way slider with 2 each
volume and 2 each tone controls.
Ive replaced the busted up selector and wired it the same way as the
old and still have no front pick (single coil).
Spent so much time searching for a schematic and no luck so if someone
has one pls forward. Thank you!
-
There's a continuity problem with the single PU. It's no less a
duplicate circuit, for that purpose, split from the selector with the single-coil existing its own tone pots. An open electrical condition
will need be isolated within the single-coils own circuit path:
a) does the selector hold electrical continuity and pass a signal
without an open from the single-coil selection.
b)...is that PU itself functional and have a signal to amplify (can
you hear a screwdriver tap occur when it touches against the coils)?
c) is the PU signal finally getting through as passed through both to resistor volume and tone pots and their supportive
capacitors/resistors?
[d: amplifier output jack should be common to a working humbucker and irrelevant or in working condition to both PUs.]
One of three, then, [a-c] are the possible sub-stages where, in that particular circuit Single-Coil stage, an OPEN condition exists in
wiring or a supportive component.
Multimeter is needed. Nice extras are a meter with an audible feedback continuity checker, and a tiny $10 shoebox "practice" amp from a
pawnshop is easier deal with while working to fit under, aside or
beside whatall else is regardless going on on the worktable.
On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 8:06:46 AM UTC-7, NoName wrote:
On 1/23/20 9:11 PM, Flasherly wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 14:56:46 -0800 (PST), RIDDLEYWALKER
<brettmeldahl@gmail.com> wrote:
No name guitarvwith fantastic action. I've got a proper table,
endoscope, and all the luthier & electronic tools, etc one could use.
I just dont have a schematic for a HB-SC-3way slider with 2 each
volume and 2 each tone controls.
Those slider switches often add a capacitor to the circuit. Adding a
capacitor will cut higher frequency and appear to boost the lower end.
It is best to simply draw out what the wiring circuit is instead of
trying to find a matching one on line.
Then again, you may wish to replace the existing circuit
with the world-famous NoName SCR circuit which can step
down 220VAC to 110VAC for use with audio equipment. I'm
sure Mr. NoName will be more than glad to provide you with
a copy of the schematic, since he was able to find it on
Google in less than 5 minutes. Of course, you may wish to
take anything he tells you with a grain of salt, since he's
one of the most electronically ignorant posers on the Net;
he can't tell a phase-inverter from a fire hydrant, or a
B-flat from a beer can. If you do *anything* he tells you
to do, the result is likely to be smoke.
You Have Been Warned.
Lord Valve, ThD
Expert (fuck you)
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